Holiday Season – please be patient whilst waiting for replies to emails – particularly busy and short staffed.

We ❤ stickers

Stickers. Decals. Foils. Whatever you want to call ’em!
We love ’em!

Over the last 20yrs we’ve built up quite a collection of original samples and “rubbings” from vehicles that came through the workshop.
Many original factory stickers have been redrawn in detail and reproduced.
We’ve also created a couple of unique stickers which never existed as an original item but nethertheless maybe should have.

In this time we’ve gathered a lot of samples and a lot of information from those involved with the production of the original decals VW fitted in the 80s.
We have amassed a collection of original production stickers probably not rivalled anywhere outside of VW archives.
We’ve contributed information to various projects to rebuild a catalogue of this stuff.
We’ve also got some we know VW themselves don’t have.

You’ll excuse us for smirking when we see people claim to be making decal sets in the “same OEM way” and doing something unique.
Especially when we’re sat here cataloguing the original stickers we have and comparing them to some they have produced…
Here are some photos of the original versions of these sticker sets, which I’m sure you will agree were produced in the “OEM way” because… well they are all from the OEM.

The exception to these is the California decals we sell. We used to produce these in the “OEM way”, but the fact is that the front and rear panel decals especially are so small that they have a tendancy for the overlaid material to lift on the corners. We were also selling so many of these that production by hand would be so time consuming that we’d never do anything else so we print them to colours matched to an original set.
It’s also a better option as it means you won’t receive a decal with a beard hair between the layers. Yes. We’ve seen it 😀
At least we hope it was a beard hair. Gip.

Whilst we are on the subject of decals…
Recently we were contacted by a trade customer who we supply stickers to with some stickers he’d received from another supplier.
The one that caught attention was one of these unique stickers that we’ve produced, so blatantly a copy.
The “Gas Info” sticker never existed, it’s something we produced after comments regarding the difficulty understanding the Westfalia gas tank. Oops.
This is where we discovered a certain supplier of decals has been taking the lazy route rather than putting in any effort himself and buying odd ones of our stickers to scan.
Lets be honest here, most are reproductions, but letting someone else do all the work redrawing them and then thinking you’ll get an original quality reproduction by scanning it is a bit off.
Somewhat ironically they are also more expensive than ours, which suggests they are either greedy as well as lazy, or begs the question that if they can’t produce them (badly) for the same price as we can from our own original artwork, why not just approach us to buy them on a trade basis like every other legitimate trader does?
The answer of course is that we know this company of old, and we wouldn’t wish to deal with them.
Hence the only way they can get our stuff to copy is a sneaky little order.

The one we were shown is pretty poor quality.
It was obviously a very poor scan of the sticker that someone had gone to the trouble of making. Badly.

All our reproduction decals are redrawn in a vector format to ensure the quality is as good as it can be.
When you scan an image regardless of how much you process it you will never get that quality.

This is how we can make this comparison. I’m sure we dont need to explain which is the scan and which is ours.
Even with the reduced quality of a JPG image, it’s pretty clear. Or not.
The one in on the left is our artwork. The one on the right is pinted from a scan of our sticker.

Does it matter?
Not to some it seems, its only a sticker. Years down the line there will be scans of scans of scans…
Safe to say we wouldn’t print the one on the right. We’d prefer to put the effort in once.
They do say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, we just wish they’d done a better job.

VW T3 Vehicle Identification Numbers… Whats in a number?

VIN’s… we all have em (or we should!) but what do they mean?

For the main part they contain a record of what you vehicle is, where it came from and when it was made.
Realistically a lot of that is irrelevent to us in terms of choosing parts, but some is useful especially at the moment in the UK where a lot of T3’s are reaching the 40 year MOT/Tax exemption age.
So for the moment, thats what we’ll concern ourselves with.

So, for the purposes of this little snippet of knowledge well look at the last bit of the VIN.

A Typical VIN  may look like this:

WV2ZZZ25ZGH012345

We’ll ignore everything before the “25” in this example.
That leaves us with: 25ZGH012345

Often you may see this stated as 25_G_012345
Basically the important stuff for working out what parts you need. So the filler characters and the build plant are removed.
This is how VW do it in their parts system so we tend to do the same. Often shortend to G_012345 unless its something that differs between pickup and “van” models… which brings us to… the “25”.

Lets get this one out of the way.
25Z – The “25” is VW’s Typ number. This is where the UK “type25” name comes from.
For some reason, we brits simply couldn’t get our heads around the fact that a “T3” wasn’t a “Type3”.
Or that a “Type2” could also be a “T3”.
It kind of makes sense… until it doesn’t. That point comes when you have a pickup, single cab or double cab. Which is a Typ24.
So… anything that started life as a full bodied van, or anything with windows of any kind will have a 25Z there. Any pickups… 24Z
Right. We can ignore those now.

oh… Z’s are “filler characters” they’re sometimes used, sometimes not. wherever you see a Z. Ignore it.

Right lets skip to the good bit.
“GH012345”
G is the model year.
Model years start in August the previous year. So a vehicle made in “G” model year which is 1986 could have been built as early as August 1985.

Model Years:
A – 1980 – From Aug 1979
B – 1981 – From Aug 1980
C – 1982 – From Aug 1981
D – 1983 – From Aug 1982
E – 1984 – From Aug 1983
F – 1985 – From Aug 1984
G – 1986 – From Aug 1985
H – 1987 – From Aug 1986
J – 1988 – From Aug 1987
K – 1989 – From Aug 1988
L – 1990 – From Aug 1989
M – 1991 – From Aug 1990
N – 1992 – From Aug 1991

So in our example, G is a 1986 model year, built between August 1985 and July 1986.

Next we have an “H”.
Again, as far as a T3 goes in Europe this will likely be “G” or “H”.
Syncro models were all built in the Graz plant in Austria. So would have “G”.
2WD models were mostly built in the Hannover plant in Germany. So “H”.
However. Some 2WD models were built at Graz too. LLE models and some of the very last were Graz built.
We have never seen a legit Syncro with a “H” VIN number. They were all built in Graz as far as VW’s information goes.
If you know of a Syncro with a “H” VIN we’d love to check the details of it.

Last bit, and the most drawn out.
The last 6 digits are sequential. They start on August 1st at 000001 and end where they end.
Where one month ended and other picked up, but the only date readily available from the VIN is the month so thats the closest we can get to a build date without delving further.

Just to clarify, the first date of the model year will be 1st August in all cases except 1979.
The VIN against that date will be the first VIN of the model year – 000001.
After that the VIN is the last one of that month.

So, you have for example a “G” model year. Thats August 1985 on.
So if you have GH000002 there is a good chance you have an August 1985 build date.
After that you need a lookup table.
And because we like you. Here it is.
The format may be a little weird depending what you’re viewing on, but it should still work.
I may come back and tidy it up later, but for now… fill yer boots.
If you have a pickup the “25” will be a “24”

So going back to our example 25_G_012345 is 1986 model year, built August 1985

Enjoy.

Model Year Month VIN
1980 01.05.1979 25-A-0000001
31.07.1979 25-A-0010874
31.08.1979 25-A-0013069
30.09.1979 25-A-0022968
31.10.1979 25-A-0034419
30.11.1979 25-A-0048105
31.12.1979 25-A-0057680
31.01.1980 25-A-0070410
29.02.1980 25-A-0090384
31.03.1980 25-A-0103711
30.04.1980 25-A-0119174
31.05.1980 25-A-0129627
30.06.1980 25-A-0148211
31.07.1980 25-A-0150805
1981 01.08.1980 25-B-000001
31.08.1980 25-B-015559
30.09.1980 25-B-034641
31.10.1980 25-B-054858
30.11.1980 25-B-066943
31.12.1980 25-B-079861
31.01.1981 25-B-095074
28.02.1981 25-B-109034
31.03.1981 25-B-125780
30.04.1981 25-B-138194
31.05.1981 25-B-152582
30.06.1981 25-B-175000
1982 01.07.1981 25-C-000001
31.07.1981 25-C-010687
31.08.1981 25-C-023204
30.09.1981 25-C-038350
31.10.1981 25-C-046299
30.11.1981 25-C-063015
31.12.1981 25-C-072654
31.01.1982 25-C-089151
28.02.1982 25-C-102735
31.03.1982 25-C-117944
30.04.1982 25-C-129212
31.05.1982 25-C-144339
30.06.1982 25-C-152976
31.07.1982 25-C-175000
1983 01.08.1982 25-D-000001
31.08.1982 25-D-013641
30.09.1982 25-D-024283
31.10.1982 25-D-033907
30.11.1982 25-D-045992
31.12.1982 25-D-051580
31.01.1983 25-D-062766
28.02.1983 25-D-074462
31.03.1983 25-D-087510
30.04.1983 25-D-097412
31.05.1983 25-D-107338
30.06.1983 25-D-115048
31.07.1983 25-D-175000
1984 01.08.1983 25-E-000001
31.08.1983 25-E-017130
30.09.1983 25-E-030692
31.10.1983 25-E-043403
30.11.1983 25-E-056804
31.12.1983 25-E-067824
31.01.1984 25-E-081562
29.02.1984 25-E-094461
31.03.1984 25-E-105852
30.04.1984 25-E-117870
31.05.1984 25-E-129579
30.06.1984 25-E-132312
31.07.1984 25-E-175000
1985 01.08.1984 25-F-000001
31.08.1984 25-F-007131
30.09.1984 25-F-020287
31.10.1984 25-F-033707
30.11.1984 25-F-049614
31.12.1984 25-F-058765
31.01.1985 25-F-073793
28.02.1985 25-F-083543
31.03.1985 25-F-097525
30.04.1985 25-F-109368
31.05.1985 25-F-119101
30.06.1985 25-F-129585
31.07.1985 25-F-175000
1986 01.08.1985 25-G-000001
31.08.1985 25-G-017340
30.09.1985 25-G-026691
31.10.1985 25-G-037754
30.11.1985 25-G-048497
31.12.1985 25-G-055689
31.01.1986 25-G-068279
28.02.1986 25-G-081888
31.03.1986 25-G-093123
30.04.1986 25-G-107082
31.05.1986 25-G-118221
30.06.1986 25-G-126906
31.07.1986 25-G-175000
1987 01.08.1986 25-H-000001
31.08.1986 25-H-017849
30.09.1986 25-H-028558
31.10.1986 25-H-040808
30.11.1986 25-H-052165
31.12.1986 25-H-061284
31.01.1987 25-H-072878
28.02.1987 25-H-086328
31.03.1987 25-H-100066
30.04.1987 25-H-112271
31.05.1987 25-H-123639
30.06.1987 25-H-130318
31.07.1987 25-H-175000
1988 01.08.1987 25-J-000001
31.08.1987 25-J-016652
30.09.1987 25-J-024569
31.10.1987 25-J-034293
30.11.1987 25-J-045748
31.12.1987 25-J-050666
31.01.1988 25-J-060498
29.02.1988 25-J-070111
31.03.1988 25-J-081314
30.04.1988 25-J-091749
31.05.1988 25-J-098911
30.06.1988 25-J-099344
31.07.1988 25-J-120000
1989 01.08.1988 25-K-000001
31.08.1988 25-K-025780
30.09.1988 25-K-036346
31.10.1988 25-K-044869
30.11.1988 25-K-056764
31.12.1988 25-K-064850
31.01.1989 25-K-077876
28.02.1989 25-K-086038
31.03.1989 25-K-095469
30.04.1989 25-K-106241
31.05.1989 25-K-114142
30.06.1989 25-K-125725
31.07.1989 25-K-175000
1990 01.08.1989 25-L-000001
31.08.1989 25-L-007602
30.09.1989 25-L-017914
31.10.1989 25-L-027101
30.11.1989 25-L-038054
31.12.1989 25-L-045388
31.01.1990 25-L-056781
28.02.1990 25-L-066743
31.03.1990 25-L-077879
30.04.1990 25-L-086200
31.05.1990 25-L-094046
30.06.1990 25-L-103116
31.07.1990 25-L-175000
1991 01.08.1990 25-M-000001
31.08.1990 25-M-004249
30.09.1990 25-M-005711
31.10.1990 25-M-007445
30.11.1990 25-M-009321
31.12.1990 25-M-009378
31.01.1991 25-M-010527
28.02.1991 25-M-012044
31.03.1991 25-M-012793
30.04.1991 25-M-013951
31.05.1991 25-M-014924
30.06.1991 25-M-016168
31.07.1991 25-M-020000
1992 01.08.1991 25-N-000001
31.08.1991 25-N-000109
30.09.1991 25-N-000113
31.10.1991 25-N-000306
30.11.1991 25-N-000805
31.12.1991 25-N-001265
31.01.1992 25-N-002183
28.02.1992 25-N-003453
31.03.1992 25-N-004566

General tightening torques

You know what it’s like, you run a workshop specialising in old vehicles and sometimes you simply just can’t find a tightening torque for something.

As it happen there are “standard” tightening torques for normal nuts and bolts and after managing to glean what I could from the interenet and several sources I brought it all together into one sheet that we had kicking about for emergencies when we simply couldn’t find the data from an automotive source.

There’s no warranty with this info, it’s here to help and for general “get you in the right place” guidance only, use at your own risk, you know the score.

Metric thread sizes        
Metric Strength classes Torque Unit 8.8 10.9 12.9
M8 x 1,00 Nm 29 43 50
ft lbs 21 32 37
M9 x 1,00 Nm 43 63 73
ft lbs 32 46 54
M10 x 1,00 Nm 60 88 103
ft lbs 44 65 76
M10 x 1,25 Nm 57 83 98
ft lbs 42 61 72
M12 x 1,25 Nm 101 149 174
ft lbs 74 110 128
M12 x 1,50 Nm 97 143 167
ft lbs 72 105 123
M14 x 1,50 Nm 159 234 274
ft lbs 117 173 202
M16 x 1,50 Nm 244 359 420
ft lbs 180 265 310
M18 x 1,50 Nm 368 523 613
ft lbs 271 386 452
M18 x 2,00 Nm 348 496 581
ft lbs 257 366 429
M20 x 1,50 Nm 511 728 852
ft lbs 377 537 628
M22 x 1,50 Nm 692 985 1153
ft lbs 510 726 850
M24 x 1,50 Nm 899 1280 1498
ft lbs 663 944 1105
M24 x 2,00 Nm 865 1232 1442
ft lbs 638 909 1064
M27  x 1,50 Nm 1304 1858 2174
ft lbs 962 1370 1603
M27 x 2,00 Nm 1262 1797 2103
ft lbs 931 1325 1551
M30 x 2,00 Nm 1756 2502 2927
ft lbs 1295 1845 2159
M33 x 2,00 Nm 2352 3350 3921
ft lbs 1735 2471 2892
M36 x 2,00 Nm 3082 4390 5137
ft lbs 2273 3238 3789
M39 x 2,00 Nm 3953 5631 6589
ft lbs 2916 4153 4860

 

T3 Radiators – What’s a few mm?


Following on from several recent discussions with both trade and retail customers who have approached us regarding the supply of radiators for the T3 either as a standard replacement or an uprated version we’ve been prompted to write this post regarding what’s happened with the radiators over the last few years and what’s available now and to dispel some of the myths floating around.

This is all a matter of what’s actually available and modern manufacturing techniques. Time and technology has moved on.

As far as we are concerned, and ignoring the very early Diesel radiator which isn’t available anyway… and the “DF” radiator which isn’t either, there are 2 different radiators

  • A thinner radiator for 1.9l WBX engines (34mm core).
  • A thicker core for Diesel models and 2.1l WBX engines (42mm core).

This measurement refers to the thickness of the radiator core. The core being the “finned” section of the radiator that has channels that the coolant runs through.
Actually it’s more complicated than that, as there are a number of dropped part numbers (including one that was discontinued before the water-cooled models were even made… but we’ll ignore all those too as they all supersede to the same parts.)

Previously, we have offered 2 options for the larger 42mm core radiator, an original South African produced radiator from Hella (still made until a couple of years ago), which was pretty much exactly the same as the one VW fitted in the factory and an alternative which is an aftermarket radiator sold under many different brands. Sadly the originals are no longer available, part of the reason for this is the insistence by some suppliers that the cheaper rads are the same as the originals resulting in a drop in demand for them.

Screenshot from VW’s parts prgoram, ETKA

Please review the following table that lists all the different radiator part numbers as fitted to a T3, when they were discontinued and which part number they were replaced by.

VW No Style To fit Core Construction Discontinued by VW Superseded to Notes
025 121 253 Late 1.9l DF and EY 34mm Plastic tanks 01/06/12 NLA Just use 025 121 253 A Instead
025 121 253 A Late 1.9l DG 34mm Plastic tanks 01/02/12 NLA Upgrade for DF & EY
               
068 121 253 Early 1.6D CS 35mm Metal tanks 30/09/80 068 121 253 A Dropped before introduction!
068 121 253 A Early 1.6D CS 35mm Metal tanks 01/12/02 NLA Repair or Convert to late style.
068 121 253 B Early 1.6D CS 35mm Metal tanks 31/01/83 068 121 253 A  
068 121 253 C Late All except DF, DG, EY & SP 42mm Plastic tanks 15/05/87 068 121 253 E  
068 121 253 D Late All except DF, DG, EY & SP 42mm Plastic tanks 30/09/94 068 121 253 E  
068 121 253 E Late All except DF, DG, EY & SP 42mm Plastic tanks 01/10/09 NLA Upgrade for DG/SP in Hot Climates

The parts in bold are radiators that we currently stock.

The early or late style in the table above refers to the radiator style and not the vehicle, early style radiators were only ever fitted to 1.6D “CS” engines and were of a more traditional construction having brass tanks and a soldered core. The early radiator is easily identified by it’s huge design flaw by having the cooling fan switches at the top of the left hand tank, any loss of coolant would render the fan switches inoperable and would accelerate a overheat situation.
Luckily, VW realised their shortcomings in this early style radiator design and it was replaced with the introduction of the WBX engine for the 1983 model year by the later style radiator with plastic tanks, aluminium core and a fan switch in a sensible place!

There are rumours of a mythical 50mm core radiator and yes, they did exist but as we said at the outset, time and technology has moved on and the same cooling capacity can be achieved by thinner and more modern cores.
The 50mm core featured tightly packed fins that would often get clogged with dirt, debris and insect matter much reducing the cooling capacity.

Hopefully this page clears up some of the misinformation floating around and helps you make an informed choice when shopping around for a radiator.


Trailing Arm Comparison – Repro to Original

One of the major advantages of having a specialist workshop next door to our warehouse is that when the opportunity arises we can make comparisons between original parts and aftermarket parts.
Today we had some original trailing arms removed from a T3 for new bushes, so took he opportunity to do a weight comparison – Original against New Aftermarket (JP Group) arms.

Considering the original arm has at least a few years of muck on it, not to mention wax, and the usually cut/broken bolts left in it… they’re pretty similar in weight which suggests they’re pretty similar in material thickness and quality of weld.

We expected nothing less to be honest… but now we know 🙂

trailingarncomparison

T3 Tyre Pressure Stickers… all of them!

Its a question we get asked quite often… “what should my tyre pressures be?”

tpstk003

If you have anything but original steel or alloy wheels its a very difficult question to answer, but if you’re still running the wheels that VW fitted then its not too difficult because VW like all other manufacturers would have put a sticker somewhere on the vehicle to tell you.
Of course, with any 20+ year old vehicle theres a good chance that the sticker has been removed, so we started looking at all the different variants of the tyre pressure sticker on vehicles that came into the workshop… there are a few!
There isnt much information from VW about which were fitted to what, and when, so we’ve had to make some educated guesses based on what we’ve seen. We’re not saying its 100% accurate, but its what we think…
There are 7 different styles that we’ve seen… heres what we think is a definitive list of all the stickers on all the different types over the years.

Early 2WD – Steel Wheels
Early 2WD – Steel and Alloy Wheels
Late 2WD – Steel and Alloy Wheels
Syncro 14″ – “Small”
Syncro 14″ – “Large”
Syncro 16″ – “Small”
Syncro 16″ – “Large”

The early and late 2 Wheel drive seem to coincide roughly with the point that the suspension changed from “Early” to “Late”. Simple enough. So theres an Early sticker for 2WD with steel wheels, and one for the optional Factory Alloys with larger tyres.

Late 2WD is simple. One sticker to cover them all… steel and alloy wheels.
Syncro… 2 different types for each model – 14″ and 16″. Absolutely no way of telling which years had small and which had the large style, it seems completely random.
The Syncro stickers are also interesting as theyre a mirrored finish rather than a flat silver like the 2WD… maybe something to do with the fact that they were produced in  Austria… who knows.

So there they are. Now you know as much as we do.
We must stress that these are for ORIGINAL VW wheels with the factory recommended tyre sizes. Anything non original the tyre pressures will vary.
We’ve spent a little while working on the artwork to reproduce them and theyre all available on the links above.

 

 

Fuel Hose… Information and Reassurances.

It doesnt matter where you go on the internet lately, there will be discussion regarding Fuel Hose. There is a lot of mis-information, and a lot false claims regarding fuel and fuel hose.
There will be scare stories and pictures of burning vehicles… demands that you CHECK YOUR FUEL HOSE NOW!!!!

22400600_1

Yes, its not a bad idea. Check your fuel hoses… thats the easy bit. Getting your head around all the “facts” regarding replacement fuel hose is impossible. Try and decipher the specs and you’ll be baffled by a series of acronyms and abbreviations that when you try and cross reference them will just result in a even more acronyms and abbreviations!
We know. Weve tried! This is what it boils down to based on information from the people actually make the hose we supply… more of that later.

Fuel is changing. The pumps may look the same, it even kind of smells the same, but its different. Huge pressure is being placed on fuel producers to use a renewable source for a percentage of their fuel. This means Ethanol in Petrol, and “Biodiesel” for Diesel fuels.

At the moment in the UK we have around 5% Ethanol (E5) in Petrol and the same Biodiesel in Diesel.
We say “around” because fuel manufacturers since 2013 have been allowed to increase this to 10% (E10), and by 2020 10% of all transport fuel must be from a renewable source.
There is already discussion regarding E15 pump fuel, and in fact in some areas of the USA its already available… as is E20 – Some parts of South America have had E20 fuel for over 30 years!

So… where does this leave us trying to keep 30+yr old vehicles on the road?
In simple terms, if you have the original fuel lines on your vehicle you’ll be lucky if its still running.
If youve replaced them in the last 10 years then there is a very good chance that they will all ready be perished and degraded and not always visibly  as the fuel runs down the inside… obviously!

Which brings us to replacement fuel hose.
If youve looked into replacing your fuel hose, you’ll be familiar with a few terms.
One is SAEJ30R… followed by a number. The most common one used now with regard to Ethanol content is “R9” or SAEJ30R9.
The R9 Spec doesnt just relate to its resistance to Ethanol and Biodiesel. Its more complicated than that… its just that its the SAE spec which has the highest resistance to them, and which also requires other requirements for the main fuel connections such as pressure resistance and strength.
“R9” is not some magic E10 fuel hose!
SAE by the way is the Society of Automotive Engineers… basically an international body who set the specs that the Automotive industry works to.
If you want the actual data, its here… and we quote this only because its not the easiest piece of information to find, not to cloud the issue more than it already is…

“Hose primarily intended to meet the demands of fuel injection systems. These would include, for example, electronic fuel metering (EFM), electronic fuel injection (EFI), throttle body injection (TBI), and the like. Other areas of utility are those applications requiring fuel permeation resistance exceeding 30R8 and ones which require fuel resistance greater than that obtainable with 30R6, 7, and 8. Exposure of this hose to gasoline or diesel fuel that contains high levels, greater than 5% by volume, of oxygenates, i.e., ethanol, methanol, or MTBE may result in significantly higher permeation rates than realized with ASTM Fuel C. This hose may be supplied in either a coupled or uncoupled form, and is useful in the transportation of gasoline, ethanol extended gasoline, diesel fuel, lubrication oil, or the vapor present in either the fuel system or the crankcase of internal combustion engines in mobile, stationary, and marine applications. This hose has a maximum working pressure of 0.69 MPa (100 psi) up to and including 12.70 mm (1/2 in) ID. This hose may be furnished in long lengths, specific cut lengths, or as a part preformed to a specific configuration. This hose is suitable for use in normal operating temperatures of 34 to 135 °C (29 to 275 °F) and intermittent use at 150°C (302 °F).”

See what we mean! Now… the important bit in all that, and really the point of this post is the sentence that states:

“exposure of this hose to gasoline or diesel fuel that contains high levels, greater than 5% by volume, of oxygenates, i.e., ethanol, methanol, or MTBE may result in significantly higher permeation rates than realized with ASTM Fuel C.”

Basically, if you buy hose described as R9 or “SAE J30 R9” it should comply with this specification. What its actually complying with is a 5% Ethanol/Biodiesel content (based on test fuels) and exposure to greater concentrations of Ethanol may result in higher permeation rates than those specified. There are other spec that this hose complies with, but thats the relevant one as far as Ethanol and Biodiesel.

And thats our issue with the whole “R9 Spec” fuel hose thing. You can go on eBay, and buy “R9 Hose” for pennies. You can buy it from a lot of suppliers. We can buy it for about half the price of the hose we currently sell. Whether its what it claims it is or not, who knows. If it is, it meets the minimum spec as stated above. 5% Ethanol or Biodiesel, more than 5% “may result in significantly higher permeation rates”. 

This brings us to the hose we sell. Our hose is sourced direct from the manufacturer. They make fuel hose for all the car makers youve heard of, and many that you havn’t. They have supplied VW with fuel hose for a long time…
The reason we tell you this is that they have a good reputation, they sell a hose and it meets the spec they claim. They have no interest in passing of a hose as something its not, and they have no interest in selling a hose to a minimum spec. Their spec isnt “R9 Hose”. It exceeds the spec. and many others, but its not just “R9”. Thats why we choose to stock it.

The hose we sell meets all the requirements to allow them to state that it is SAE J30 R9, however if you read the data sheet regarding the suitability for Ethanol and Biofuels its safe with up to 100% of either.

The exception to this is the 5.5mm Braided hose we supply for the breather pipes. You’ll read things like “Cotton Overbraid hose is no good for modern fuels”. Which is nonsense.
The covering  of the hose means nothing, it is literally what is inside that counts!
Our 5.5mm Overbraid hose complies (and exceeds) R6 spec, and at the same time is fine with 10% Ethanol content (E10).
Thats right… as far as Ethanol content goes its higher spec than “R9” hose you might see for sale… you wouldnt use it for high pressure applications, but for breather pipes… no problems.

You’ll also note that the sizes of hose we sell are the exact dimensions VW specify. Well, they would be, they’re made by the same people who supply VW!
We dont sell a slightly bigger hose just because its pound or two cheaper!

And there you have it… hopefully its a little clearer.

 5.5mm Overbraid Hose
3.2mm FPM/ECO Hose
5.5mm FPM/ECO Hose
7.3mm FPM/ECO Hose
11.5mm FPM/ECO Hose

 

Right Hand Drive Headlamps – Identifying

Not easy to find, and usually expensive when they do turn up!
This is how to make sure the RHD headlamps youve been offered are exactly that…

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See the red area? That is the area of the lamp that creates the raised section of the beam on the left (to illuminate the kerbside) note that the same area at the other side of the light is flat… so light doesnt shine into oncoming traffics eyes.
So, on RHD lamps, the red section will be on the RIGHT side of the Vehicle. Thats Offside in the UK. Basically the section that angles down should be towards the middle of the road.

If thats not simple enough, the other method of identifying is the ARROW below the ‘E Mark’.
The arrow will point to the LEFT of the vehicle (kerbside in the UK). Left Hand Drive lamps have NO ARROW.

Both headlamps on the vehicle should be the same.

The Red area is also the area you would mask when you drive on the continent. Usually you’d mask the area above to the line to make sure you dont dazzle at all.